We are often asked if we can create patterns from sketches, and the answer is yes, we can, if the sketches are clear, if the basic measurements are indicated and if the designer is available to be on a call with us to talk through the sketch. However, it leaves room for mistakes. It leaves room for interpretation and guess work. Let´s say it´s a bomber jacket – how tightly did you want the waistband to sit? On the hips or below the hips? Let´s say it´s an A-line skirt, how wide is the A? Should it be stiff or allow for folds? Allowing room for guesswork or interpretation is always going to allow for more risks.
A tech pack pulls together all the information about your garment in one place, with visual representation. A good tech pack will include digitized sketches, a full set of measurements including the width and length of that bomber waistband and will tell us how tightly it will hug the hips and whether it is actually sitting on, below, or above the hips, it will detail all the trims, the stitch types and any other information relevant to the garment. The tech pack is almost like a contract between the designer and the sampling team, it is the common reference point – if it was in the tech pack, then that is what should have been created. If it was not in the tech pack, then it is the designer´s mistake. It is really that simple.
Now of course, if we notice that something is missing, or notice that a measurement looks off, we will ask for clarification, albeit, this will cause delays and a back and forth of emails. The more severe situation is if something simply was not indicated. Let´s say a tech packs indicates the bomber to have flap pockets, but the designer later changed his mind – once the sample is created with flap pockets this cannot be altered as the full body of the jacket is affected. And there would be a significant delay in the sample if it has to be remade as the fabric must be re-ordered and the cutting and sewing done again.
What should a tech pack include? Unfortunately there is no set standard for a tech pack but the below is a good guide:
1) Flat Sketch
A Flat sketch of the front and back. The sketch should be in black and white and drawn to scale as best as possible.
All the measurements for your sample size, ideally indicated on the flat sketch so we agree on where the measurements are taken from – this is called point of measurement. We do not need all the measurements for all your sizes at this stage, this is requested pre-production when it is time to grade your pattern.
3) Written or Visual Description
Add here any details about the garment that may not be 100% clear from the flat sketch, perhaps you include here magnified views of certain details. Describe in components like collars, plackets, cuffs, fastenings, bar tacks or artwork placement.
5) Bill of Materials.
This is essentially a list of what is needed to put the garment together and includes everything from fabric and trims details and through to labels, hang tags and the packaging
6) List of Stitches and Seams.
If you have any specific stitch or seam requirements then list them here. Illustrate or just write the descriptions of joining operations. Include details like stitches per inch, width of seams, seam allowances etc.
8) Branding Artwork.
This is your brand labels, care labels and hang tags – each will require a complete set of artwork.