What different types of shirts are there? (Part 2)

The shirt is without a doubt the most versatile article of dress. People wear shirts in different 

social settings and the demand for them is always high. This season, Source Studio launched 

a new service focusing in high quality formal & casual shirt production from MOQ of 

200 units/ style/ colour up to 2,000 units per style and colour for small and mid sized brands.

We provide a fully factored service from fabric and trims sourcing and through to sampling

 and production, quality control & shipping.  Let’s go on a journey with Source Studio to

 discover top 10 most popular shirts in everybody’s wardrobe.

6. Flannel Shirt

 As plaid flannel shirts are so popular, many people mistake flannel for plaid. The truth is,

 flannel refers to the fabric and weave of a shirt, where as plaid refers to the pattern. 

Originally, flannel was made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but nowadays people often

 make it from  wool, cotton or synthetic fiber.

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7&8. Chambray vs denim shirt

Though both Chambray and denim are made of cotton, the fabrics have different construction.

 Single strands of coloured and white thread are woven together (plain weave) to create 

chambray while in denim, double strands of threads are woven into a diagonal pattern

 (twill weave). An easy way to distinguish them is that you can see a lighter color to the 

underside of a denim fabric, whereas both sides of chambray have quite similar colours.

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9. Classic Short Sleeve Shirt

Well known for its versatility, the classic short sleeve shirt is a must item for summer time.

 They diverse in styles, printing and colours and are usually worn without tucking in.

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10. Linen 

Linen fabric is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It was worn by high social class in ancient

 Egypt. Compared to cotton fabric, linen is 30% stronger, more lightweight and breathable.

 That’s the reason why  it is perfect for hot and humid climates.

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What different types of shirts are there? (Part 1)

The shirt is without a doubt the most versatile article of dress. People wear shirts in different 

social settings, and the demand for them is always high. This season, Source Studio launched a

 new service focusing in high quality formal & casual shirt production from MOQ of

 200 units/ style/ colour up to 2,000 units per style and colour for small and mid sized brands.

 We provide a fully factored service from fabric and trims sourcing and through to sampling

 and production, quality control & shipping.  Let’s go on a journey with Source Studio to

 discover top 10 most popular shirts in everybody’s wardrobe.

1. Dress shirt

If you’re looking for a shirt for formal evening wear, the dress shirt is the perfect choice.  It is 

a button-up shirt with a collar, long sleeves and wrist cuffs, usually worn with a black or white

 tie. Common fabrics used to make dress shirts is woven and dyed cotton.

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2. Oxford button-down shirt

This kind of shirt is named after the Oxford cloth from which it’s made. In this specific kind of 

fabric, instead of being woven individually like in plain canvas, yarns are woven in strands. It’s 

also thicker than other shirting fabrics. 

Oxford shirts usually have a button down collar and hanger loop to the back of the yoke.

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3. Office Shirt

The name explains itself. Common textures are twills, oxfords and herringbones.

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4. Cuban Collar Short Sleeve Shirt

Originally, Cuban collar shirt were used as uniform for working-class men in 18th century

 South America. Nowadays, it is widely used everywhere in the world. A Cuban collar shirt

 typically has an open collar, short sleeves, and a straight, boxy hem. 

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5. Overshirt

An overshirt serves both as a regular shirt and a light jacket. They share the same traits as a 

shirt such as collars, button or zip but are normally made from heavier materials like cotton 

or wool. They are great items for autumn and winter.

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Do you know the story behind little rivets on your jeans?

While industry experts surely know the answer, we find that non denim experts do not and find this bit of information rather interesting.

This season jeans are coming back and there doesn´t seem to be any end in sight. Certainly jeans is a garment of which we all have at least one pair in our closet. But have you ever noticed little silver or copper studs all over your jeans and wonder why they are there?

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These are rivets, which are round mental attachments that are especially placed on areas of the jeans that are most likely to be pulled apart by strain or movement and they help hold the fabric together, therefore making them last longer.

These little pieces play an important role in the development of jeans as we see them today. Although denim trousers had been used for many years previously due to the strength of the denim, it was the creation of rivets that led to them becoming a workman´s jeans which then years later became a fashion item.  

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Here is the story of the evolution of your jeans.

In the 1870s, denim was commonly worn by labour workers, but despite the strong denim weave, they were still not resisting strains they were put under during hard labour, namely ripping at the seams. As a result, a miner’s wife in the Reno area, tired of sewing her busband´s trousers together, took them to Jacob Davis, a tailor, and asked if he could fix this problem. Mr Davis came up with the idea of putting rivets on the areas that endured the most strain, such as pocket corners and the base of the fly. The rivets helped hold the fabric together, and meant the trousers were less likely to tear.

In 1873, Davis set up a partnership with Levi Strauss, who he usually purchased the denim fabric from. Together they acquired a patent for “improvement in fastening pocket-openings.” Levi Strauss was the first company to manufacture riveted pants in the 1800s.

After that, bar tacks — “a necessary anchor placed at the top and bottom of a belt loop” — and zippers are other essential elements that have been added to jeans over time.

 

Reference:

http://www.businessinsider.com/tiny-buttons-rivets-jeans-2016-11

https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/those-tiny-bits-of-metal-on-your-jeans-pockets-are-actually-really-important-a6998821.html

 http://www.historyofjeans.com/

https://www.self.com/story/purpose-of-tiny-buttons-on-jeans-rivets

YOUR FULLY-FACTORED FASHION PRODUCTION SERVICE

As a fashion designer, we understand that you have a myriad of things to manage: from coming up with ideas, developing you designs, financing, sourcing fabrics and trims, finding a suitable clothes manufacturer to work with, controlling quality, arranging labeling and packaging, shipping, advertising, marketing and social media and of course, the all important part of selling your collection.

When you work with a reliable partner a lot of these headaches are managed externally, leaving you to focus on building your business. We take care of the development and production side of things for emerging brands and designers.

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At Source Studio we are proud to offer our clients an all-in-one service or fully factored clothing manufacturing service.  We will bring your ideas, your designs, to life - from the sourcing of fabric and trims through to first samples, grading, production, labeling, packaging and shipping.  This is a service larger companies usually benefit from, but the smaller brands and independent designers, who usually have the least time and resources, are usually unable to access these resources.

1. Sourcing of fabrics and trims

Clients often come to us stating that the one of the most time consuming areas is sourcing the right fabrics.

At Source Studio, in order to offer a fully factored service, we solve that problem. Clients send us swatches of their desired fabrics which our team then counter sources and imports from China, one of the largest textile markets in the world. We work with a broad selection of fabrics - wovens and knits, naturals and synthetics. This is a valued added service we offer all our clients as standard.

2  Sampling

 Based on your tech packs, our team of highly experienced pattern makers and seamstresses bring your designs to life.  After we collect all the information and are ready to start sewing, a meeting or skype call will be arranged with our native English speaking expert to make sure we understand all your ideas correctly.

Our team of pattern makers and seamstresses will then convert your designs into first samples for your approval. Any changes required are then made before we move into grading of patterns.

 

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3Production

All our factories are Vietnam based, specifically in Saigon. We work with low volumes from 30 units per style and colour (we also manage high volume production).  We know that at the early stage of your business, small quantity clothing manufacturing is essential in order not to be left with stocks at the end of the season and we are proud to be able assist emerging designers in this. Low volume production and the associated cost benefits is not usually available in Asia, nor is a fully factored service. At Source Studio we have set up a network of partner factories and workshops who accept low volume orders via us, thereby allowing our designers to benefit from the advantages of producing in Vietnam.

4Quality control

Quality control is a very important factor to consider in clothes manufacturing and many brands struggle to find the right partners.  Fashion brands are especially concerned about product quality when they produce clothing abroad as it is very difficult to control from afar.  Working in middle to higher end sector and with our production being sold in some of the worlds most renowned shops and department stores, high quality is of special concern to our brands and therefore to us. Each piece passes through 2 levels of quality control to ensure our designer´s standards are always met, season through season.

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5Lead times

Emerging or niche brands usually have lower volume orders of under 250 units per style.  This is a very low volume for most factories and these clients are often pushed to the back of the queue when larger orders are received. This causes late deliveries and penalties to the emerging brand as well as a poor, often first impression to their retailer clients. At Source Studio we commit to the delivery dates given. We understand that our commitment to you is your commitment to your client

Fabric Fair again! 20-23rd March. MOQ 20 units, fully factored service

Looking for fabrics for the upcoming season?

Showcasing over 10.000 fabrics for sampling & production

20th - 23rd of March 9am – 6pm (2pm on the Friday)

Select from sustainable fabrics like tencels and rayons, cottons and silks, to ribs, jacquards, embroideries and laces, corduroys, linens, nylons, meshes and a BIG etc.

Reminding you that we produce also denim styles. We now have an even broader selection of types of denims available as well as effects.

We invite you to visit us and collect your swatches – see attached invite for further details.

Source Studio is a fully factored service with no MOQ (well, 20 units per style/colour)

As a part of our fully factored service, Source Studio sources fabric on the designer´s behalf. Please note we do not offer this as a stand-alone service. Whilst our MOQ is 20 units per style/colour the fabric displayed comes in full rolls of 80-120m.

Source Studio is a British managed company with sampling and production services in Saigon, Vietnam.

 Click here to see who is really making your clothes.

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Vietnam officially lost the U23s Asean Cup - but they won it anyway!

Here is a post with a bit of a difference – we are not football fans nor do we have any interest in promoting it – but we are in Vietnam, our team are almost all Vietnamese and we feel very proud this week of Vietnamese attitude and unity – characteristics we see also every day in our work lives. Vietnam is a friendly, happy and hard working country.

It may not have been a perfectly happy ending for Vietnam football team when they lost out on a snow filled pitch (most of the players will not have seen snow before, nevermind played in it) in the final minute of the final against Uzbekistan for under 23s, a level nobody in Vietnam felt they would be able to reach. Hence it didn’t matter much that they didn´t win. The main prize had already been won- the heart of millions Vietnamese.

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The country was so proud of their team regardless that the party went right ahead anyway with streets flooded with excited supporters incredulous that their team made it so far.  The huge crowds of fans were bursting with national pride as they streamed home, some still chanting "Vietnam the champion!". Grandparents and babies, rich and poor – everyone was out celebrating.

Image source: Internet

Image source: Internet

Image source: Internet

Image source: Internet

The streets were flooded with a sea of red and gold as flag-waving fans, many also wearing red headbands that said "Vietnam Wins". Strangers hugged and shook hands sharing unlimited joy.

Image source: Internet

Image source: Internet

A week before the final match, people talked and discussed excitedly about football everywhere in schools, markets, restaurants and buses. Some of them had never had any interest in the game before.

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On the final day, everybody gathered together in coffee shops, public squares and stadiums watching the game. Cinemas were screening for free. Companies were sending employees home early. Even patients in hospitals put aside their sickness and suffering, enjoyed the match.

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The past weeks have been a fantastic journey for the players and the country. It is not just a game any more, it unites the whole country and brings people closer together.

Well done Vietnam!  And not just the team, well done the people of Vietnam for their positive attitude and unity as a country!

Fashion Pollution

Christmas is nearly here and the streets are full of last minute shoppers in what is arguably the busiest time of the year. And with the holiday shopping season in full swing, we want to send a reminder about being more mindful about our purchasing choices this year, particularly as far as fashion items are concerned.

Photo source: https://ridgetimes.co.za/78684/beat-the-christmas-rush/

Photo source: https://ridgetimes.co.za/78684/beat-the-christmas-rush/

When it comes to clothes, many fashion-conscious individuals will state that you can never have too many. Following style trends and dressing accordingly has the potential to become an addictive lifestyle. But what happens to clothes after they go out of style? How many of us actually wear the same pieces for years before we finally get rid of them?

According to EcoWatch, next to oil, the clothing industry is the largest pollution contributor in the world. Throughout the entire production process, waste in the form of toxic chemicals, unused fabric and raw materials contribute to the worsening pollution problem all over the world. Clothes that are discarded after years or months of use make their way to landfills, most of which do not go through recycling processes. As the economies strengthen and the consumer’s purchasing power improves, waste production from the fashion industry goes up.

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A recent report from Wrap (the Waste and Resources Action Programme), states that the average piece of clothing in the UK lasts for 3.3 years before it is disposed of, be it is discarded. Other research puts the lifespan clothing in the UK at 2.2 years. For the younger demographic, it is likely closer to 6 months or a year. A UK-based fashion company tells its buyers to remember that a dress will stay in the owner’s wardrobe for only five weeks!! Wrap further estimates that we bought 1.13m tonnes of new clothing last year in the UK. At the same time,  an estimated £30bn-worth hangs about gathering dust.

These figures are staggering and it cannot be maintained, but where does the responsibility lie and how do we affect change?
There’s an obvious contradiction between selling fashion and instructing us to buy less, this is what the growth of the industry relies on, particularly the fast fashion side. However, some industry leaders like Stella McCartney or Christopher Raeburn for example, promote making clothing with less waste. Or buying high quality clothing, in lower volumes, and moving away from the idea that a whole new collection of low cost clothing from the high street is an essential.

The problem is at it simplest, threefold – the addicted consumer following the very latest trends, the fashion retailer pushing demand and over producing, and lastly, the waste that comes from the factories themselves in terms of faulty pieces.  We have looked at the statistics of clothing discarded by the consumer, but what about the brand itself?  And what about at the factory?

High-street brands typically order huge volumes of clothing from their factories to cater to the mass market. These pieces are only expected to last until the end of the season and 40% of the stock will go into sales, or eventually be disposed of.

The production line itself contributes an estimated 3-5% of the waste from the fashion industry in the form of ready-made items that did not make it to the retailers due to poor quality or simply because they did not fulfil the order specifications.

Action needs to be taken to solve all of the above, and steps are being taken by a small number of designers, a few high street brands and an increasingly environment conscientious consumer.

Doing our bit

Source Studio

At Source Studio we work with contemporary emerging designers season through season. The care that goes into each design of which typically 30-100 units only will be made makes each style not only unique, but conscientiously created.  Many of the brands we work with will use sustainable fabrics as a first choice, or non-synthetic or organic. They further want to know where the items are produced, and they use all left overs of fabric. What is not used we give to local charities in Saigon, either in the form of clothing we make in our ´down times´, or as fabric strips used for filling or toys or rugs.

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THE CASE OF THE FIRST WORLD SWEATSHOP

We live under the impression that when a piece of clothing is marked, “Made in Britain”, it was made in a garment factory in the UK that upholds good workplace ethics. The fact of the matter is that, sweatshops are not just common in the developing world. United Kingdom also has quite a few of these garment factories. With the strong, and very effective marketing of ´Made in the UK´ it is important for designers to realize that if the price of an item of clothing is very low – is it logical that it could be produced at this price in the UK and that minimum wages are being paid and that conditions for the workers are suitable?

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Having our sampling studio and production in Saigon we are often asked about fair working conditions. And we want to be asked, because it is something which is at the core of our beliefs.  Of course there are factories in Vietnam which do not have good standards, there are sweatshops just as there are in Bangladesh, or Cambodia, India or China. And as you will read below, also in the UK and certainly other Western countries. At Source Studio, we work with a select number of factories, currently 18, and a big part of our role is to select these factories as our production partners. Many of these´factories´ are smaller workshops with 25-100 workers and they have typically been set up by ex-line managers from the larger factories. We have worked closely with many of these workshops since their set-up, training in high quality production, standard operating procedures and controls and advising in general so that we could partner with them for parts of our production orders. These types of work shops typically work on low volume orders, as well as more complex styles and to a high quality level. Perhaps because the management are ex- line managers having worked their way up from being a seamstress in most cases, they value the working environment and create friendly and comfortable work places for their staff. Because we work in a transparent fashion, and because we are the eyes and ears for our clients, we consider it our role to ensure that production is carried out in not only fair working conditions, but good working conditions, with above average wages and with overtime paid to dedicated and hard working staff.  It means also that we do not compete with sweatshop prices – if a shirt, ordered in 50 units is quoted at $7 a piece, it is not likely under fair working conditions, be it in Vietnam or elsewhere.

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What is the situation in the UK?

Leicester is currently under investigation after reports found that more than a third of workers are being paid half the legal minimum wage requirement, working in unsafe conditions and/or without employment contracts. Leicester accounts for a third of Britain’s garment manufacturing output. Its clientele is composed of well-known high street brands.

According to reports, the fashion manufacturing industry is plagued by bad labour practices. Many factories are notorious for poor employment conditions and a blatant abuse of human rights. According to Debbie Coulter from the Ethical Training Initiative, it is shocking to learn how, in a country whose average wage is £3 per hour, there are still people paid as little as £1 per hour in sweatshops.

In an interview with the Telegraph, Anders Kristiansen of New Look has expressed qualms about using Leicester factories to support the rising demand for its products. It is a known epidemic in the industry and everyone is aware of it but no one is necessarily doing anything about it. Also chief executive Nick Breighton added that manufacturing the UK may be the fastest way to bring their line to consumers but Leicester’s bad reputation may just force them to look elsewhere to keep up with their inventory without sacrificing their reputation and corporate ethos.

References:

http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/sweatshops-exist-in-the-uk-leicester

Source Studio at the Textile Forum with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise

As SS18 wraps up, we step straight into Autumn Winter with The Textile Forum exhibition next week 11,12th of October, displaying the next season´s fabrics.

Textile Forum

Textile Forum

The Textile Forum is a seasonal event held in London´s Marylebone twice per year,  showcasing over 70 high end fabric suppliers and attracting London´s top designers to the event. 

This season the Textile Forum has joined forces with  the Centre for Fashion Enterprise(CFE), to create an area dedicated to high end manufacturing, thereby offering visitors both the fabric, and the production resources under one roof.

CFE Manufacturers Trade Show

CFE Manufacturers Trade Show

CFE is London’s pioneering fashion and FashTech business incubator whose purpose is to fast-track designers and entrepreneurs into successful businesses. Current businesses supported include Wales Bonner, Liam Hodges, Faustine Steinmetz, Roberts Wood and Alex Mullins. The Manufacturers Trade Show is a part of CFE’s Fashion Technology Emerging Futures (FTEF) project, part funded by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF). According to UK Fashion & Textile Association more than 80 per cent of fashion businesses are ‘micro SMEs”. 

“The two shows will provide designers with an unrivalled opportunity to source quality fabric and garment manufacturing under one roof,” says Linda Laderman, co founder of Textile Forum, which is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year. 

“The vision for our Manufacturers Trade Show is to connect fashion businesses with high end production units with a view to developing long lasting relationships. There is a strong synergy with visitors attending Textile Forum so we are delighted to relocate and provide our exhibitors with a two day event,” says Judith Tolley, head of CFE. 

Source Studio will be exhibiting in the manufacturers section and is launching this season a new department – Denims. 

 

This season we are happy to announce the launch of DENIMS! 

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As usual, we will offer a complete service:

-       fabric sourcing and dye to match

-       fabric testing

-       wash effects like stone, bleach, wrinkle

-       sampling from tech packs or samples

-       production MOQ 30 units/style

 

 

We invite you to visit us @ The Textile Forum to see samples of denim clothing as well as fabrics available for your designs. We are in the manufacturers section in collaboration with The Centre for Fashion Enterprise.